By Jim Gorzelany, Motor1.com
Here’s what to expect when the temperatures plunge and snow begins to fall.
With Old Man Winter’s icy fingers beginning to grip many parts of the
country, motorists in general need to pay extra attention to their
vehicles to ensure they’re ready to handle the onslaught of frigid
weather. The change in seasons can be especially pronounced for
electric-car owners, however, particularly those living in the coldest
climates. Whether you’re a first-time buyer or are a seasoned veteran,
here’s what to expect and how to proceed when the mercury plunges.
Check The Tires
For starters, be sure to check the air
pressure in your vehicle’s tires using a good quality air gauge. While
this should be a regular check, it’s especially important as we head
into winter. That’s because tires generally lose two percent of their
air pressure for every 10°F the ambient temperature drops. You may also
see the tire pressure monitor warning light illuminated on your car’s
instrument panel (it looks like a cutaway of a tire with an exclamation
point). If the air pressure in one or more tires is low, inflate them to
the automaker's recommended PSI (pounds per square inch). It’s stated
in your owner’s manual and on a label that’s affixed to the
driver’s-side doorjamb. If where you live gets extreme amounts of
snowfall, consider installing a set of grippy snow tires for the winter.
Expect Fewer Miles On A Charge
All
vehicles, whether they run on gas or kilowatts, become less
energy-efficient in cold weather. The typical internal combustion engine
vehicle can see its gas mileage drop by around 20 percent in the cold,
and this effect tends to be more pronounced with electric cars.
The
unfortunate truth is that cold temperatures can substantially hamper
both a battery’s performance and its ability to accept a charge.
A
study conducted earlier this year by the AAA found that when the
mercury dips to 20°F and the heater is in use, an electric car’s
operating range will drop by an average of 41 percent. That means if you
own a Nissan Leaf, that’s otherwise rated to run for 150 miles on a
charge, you’d likely only be drive for around 88 miles before having to
plug it in. You’ll also find it takes longer to bring the vehicle’s
battery pack up to a full charge. Frigid temperatures also limit an
electric car’s regenerative braking function, which recovers energy that
would otherwise be lost during decelerating or stopping and sends it
back to the battery.
On top of that, using the heater will drain
an electric vehicle’s battery at an accelerated pace. While gasoline
engines generate large amounts of heat that can be harvested to warm a
car’s interior, an electric car’s climate control system relies solely
on battery power to accomplish this function.
Maximize Your Car’s Cold-Weather Range
Extending
an electric car’s operating range to achieve maximum miles on a charge
can become an obsession with some electric car owners, and it becomes
critical during the coldest months of the year. Proper planning is the
key to tempering one’s range anxiety under extreme climactic conditions.
It’s
best to keep an electric vehicle garaged when not in use to help shield
it from the elements. If your garage at home and/or parking space at
work is heated, so much the better. Keep the vehicle plugged in at all
times to ensure the battery will maintain a full charge. If your vehicle
has a pre-conditioning feature, engage it (usually via a smartphone
app) before hitting the road. This will heat both the interior and the
battery pack while the vehicle is plugged into the charger, which will
in turn help preserve battery capacity. Some models will warm the
battery automatically in cold weather. If you’re away from home, park
the car in the sun to keep it a bit warmer.
Limit the use of the
heater while driving. Set the temperature as low as you can comfortably
stand, and instead rely on your car’s heated seats and heated steering
wheel (if so equipped), which consume less electricity. Wear warm
clothes and a heavy coat so you can minimize engaging the climate
control. In the aforementioned AAA study, the electric vehicles tested
only lost an average of about 12 percent of range in the cold while
running with their heaters switched off, compared to 41 percent with the
climate control in use.
If your car has a selectable “Eco” mode
that will adjust performance parameters to preserve battery range, be
sure to engage it. If your car allows you to tune in more or less
regenerative braking, set it to full force to send more power pack to
the battery when coming to a stop. And try to limit your speed while
driving in cold weather. Not only does operating the vehicle at greater
velocities use more energy than driving around town, a vehicle’s
aerodynamic drag increases at higher speeds and requires added power to
overcome.
Also, make note of where public charging stations are
near where you live, shop and work in case you’re running unexpectedly
low. Look for DC Fast Charging units that can bring an electric car’s
battery back up to 80 percent of its capacity in 30-45 minutes,
depending on the vehicle and the ambient temperature.
Winter Driving Strategies
If
live in a snowy winter climate, there’s a chance you’ll encounter
rapidly changing road conditions and should prepare for a worst-case
scenario. Fill your car’s windshield washer tank with non-freezing
solution and stock the trunk with a small shovel, brush/scraper, and
some flattened cardboard boxes or a large bag of sand or cat litter to
help get your car moving if it becomes stuck on snow or ice. Fortunately
an electric car’s lower its center of gravity and even weight
distribution helps bolster its traction on slippery surfaces. Those
equipped with all-wheel drive perform even better in this regard.
Still,
there’s no defying the laws of physics – any car can spin on ice or
become stuck in deep snow, so you’ll want to take certain precautions.
When snow begins to fall, be sure to turn on the car’s headlamps, reduce
speed, and leave extra room between you and the traffic ahead – the
brakes won’t work as well as they would on dry roads. Watch for frozen
patches, especially on bridges and overpasses that tend to freeze
quicker than paved roads. Avoid using the vehicle’s cruise control to
keep your reaction times to a minimum.
If you’re coming to a stop
and feel the brake pedal pulsating or chattering (and/or the “ABS” light
is flashing on the instrument panel), this means the antilock function
is activated. Maintain a firm foot on the pedal until the vehicle comes
to a stop. If the stability control warning light flashes on the
dashboard, that means the system is engaging to help counter wheel spin,
and you should take it as a signal to slow down. If the vehicle begins
to skid on a slippery spot or black ice, stay calm and steer in the
direction you want to go, maintaining a light and steady foot on the
accelerator. Slamming on the brakes when a car or truck is sliding
sideways will only make things worse.
If you do manage to get
stuck on snow or ice, disengage the car’s traction control system
(there’s usually a dashboard button for this – check your car’s owner’s
manual) as it tends to be counter productive in this type of situation.
Avoid spinning the tires to avoid digging yourself into a deeper rut.
Instead, gradually “rock” the vehicle back and forth to get it unstuck.
With the transmission in drive, slowly creep ahead as far as possible –
perhaps only an inch or two at a time – then engage the brakes, put the
car into reverse and repeat the process back and forth several times to
gradually get unstuck.
If this doesn’t work, throw several
handfuls of sand or cat litter you prudently packed in the trunk under
the tires to achieve just enough grip to get going. Otherwise wedge
sheets of cardboard or the car’s floor mats under the tires to help them
catch. If possible, enlist passersby to help give the car a push.
Otherwise, it’s time to call a tow truck to get you unstuck.
Mercifully, there will be warmer days ahead.
